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Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Surfing at Avenellas


Yesterday, Christmas Day, we spent a quiet morning at the camp. We were all still pretty wiped out from our day at Ollie's and Witch's Rock. In the afternoon we went to Avenellas to surf. It was the best day of surfing we have had so far. Avenellas is a beach break. This particular day the waves were between chest high and head high, beautiful lefts and rights for as far as the eye could see. We got to the beach at around 1:45 with the intention of surfing for about two hours. We did not get back into the van until almost 5 pm. Everyone was catching waves. Jonathan and Stephen, our two nephews, really started putting it all together here. Dan had a great afternoon. I even got inside the barrel or at least that is what people say. Generally it felt like I was getting crushed by the wave, but I held on for awhile.
We were so toast by the time we got back that we ate dinner and crashed. I was asleep by 8pm. The rest of the gang held out a bit longer. We didn't take any pictures from this beach so there is nothing to really show you. But we promise to take some surf shots before the end of the week.
Pura Vida.

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